Modification - Ron Dexter, ASC Style
17/03/08 08:00
Modifications to the Cool Light 150w CDM.
Ron Dexter, ASC, has been quoted as saying “You never have to accept a product as delivered to you by the manufacture.” Stories of him modifying cameras, and other equipment to fit his needs abound, and from his web site: www.rondexter.com you can see that this guy does what it takes to get the job done.
In keeping with that same spirit, I would like to offer my own modification to some lighting equipment that I received from Cool Lights. (www.coollights.biz) After several months of working with the 150w and 575w HMI’s, there has been one issue that has come up that I have not liked about the 150w HMI- the base stand connector. Although the rest of the light is made of metal, this connector is plastic, and I think the one weak point of the light. Specifically speaking, I was out on a shoot last week, and I had the connection break on me. Fortunately this did not impact the shoot, but as it broke rather easily, it did concern me.
In order to get this connector to work with the 150 HMI you have to make some modifications to both the light and the connector. To make this modification you will need the following tools:
1. Drill with a metal drill bit (Bit size is about 3/8&rdquo
2. Saw for cutting metal
3. Needle nose pliers
4. Regular pliers
5. Hex bolt screwdriver set
6. Philips head screw driver
7. Vice
8. Heat resistant gloves
9. Protective glasses
The Steps:
1. First you will need to remove the yoke from the light. On one side of the light is a knob that you can remove with your hand, and on the other side you will need the hex bolt screw. Unscrew these to remove the yoke.
2. Now you can remove the connector from the yoke. using the Philips head screw driver, unscrew the two screws to remove the connector.
3. With the connector removed, you no need to drill a hole in the center of the yoke, between the two holes where the original connector was connected. Check the drill bit size first- I believe that the size is about 3/8”, but my drill bit is unmarked, so I am not sure of the exact size. I do know that the drill bit I have is slightly smaller then the screw for the new connector.
The 575w HMI I have has a metal connector, and it is very solid with no issues at all. So instead of getting a replacement plastic connector, I wanted to get a metal one. I contacted Richard at cool Lights, and was aware of the issue with the 150w connector, and agreed that a metal one would be better. While he does not currently stock the same metal connector that the 575w HMI has, he does stock another metal connector, and in keeping with the great customer service, he sent me out two metal connectors.
4. Next, thread the screw of the connector through this hole in the yoke. My hole was slightly smaller then the screw, but I was able to thread it through, which created some threading in the hole. Once you know it will work, unscrew the connector from the yoke.
5. Now you need to cut down the screw on the connector. As it is delivered from Cool Lights, It is to long and it will get in the way of the light. You will want to cut about 1/4” off of the screw. Cut it down so that it is no taller then the wings on the wing nut. To cut the screw, you will need to place it in a vice and use a metal cutting saw. (Be careful to handle the metal with gloves, it gets VERY HOT after it is cut.***)
6. Once the metal screw is cooled, you can now rethread it through the yoke, and secure it with the included wing nut. Make sure that the wings of the nut are perpendicular to the yoke. Otherwise they may get in the way of the light. use the pliers to ensure that you have tightened the nut securely.
7. Finally, you can now reattach the yoke to the light. If the bolts in the light did not stay in place when you unscrewed it, you can use a pair of needle nose pliers to push the nut back into place when you thread the screws.
8. The yoke should now be able to swing clear of the light. It will be a tight fit, but it should work. (I did notice that on one of the 150w HMI’s I had to remove the washer in-between the wing nut and the yoke to get it to work correctly.)
Cheers,
Ryan E. Walters, Cinematographer
*** It is very important to wear gloves when touching the hot metal. When I cut the top off of the screw, it was hanging on by a thread, and I thought that I could quickly take it off. But upon touching it my hand was instantly burned. I now have an interesting looking burn on my index finger. Be advised.
In keeping with that same spirit, I would like to offer my own modification to some lighting equipment that I received from Cool Lights. (www.coollights.biz) After several months of working with the 150w and 575w HMI’s, there has been one issue that has come up that I have not liked about the 150w HMI- the base stand connector. Although the rest of the light is made of metal, this connector is plastic, and I think the one weak point of the light. Specifically speaking, I was out on a shoot last week, and I had the connection break on me. Fortunately this did not impact the shoot, but as it broke rather easily, it did concern me.
In order to get this connector to work with the 150 HMI you have to make some modifications to both the light and the connector. To make this modification you will need the following tools:
1. Drill with a metal drill bit (Bit size is about 3/8&rdquo
2. Saw for cutting metal
3. Needle nose pliers
4. Regular pliers
5. Hex bolt screwdriver set
6. Philips head screw driver
7. Vice
8. Heat resistant gloves
9. Protective glasses
The Steps:
1. First you will need to remove the yoke from the light. On one side of the light is a knob that you can remove with your hand, and on the other side you will need the hex bolt screw. Unscrew these to remove the yoke.
2. Now you can remove the connector from the yoke. using the Philips head screw driver, unscrew the two screws to remove the connector.
3. With the connector removed, you no need to drill a hole in the center of the yoke, between the two holes where the original connector was connected. Check the drill bit size first- I believe that the size is about 3/8”, but my drill bit is unmarked, so I am not sure of the exact size. I do know that the drill bit I have is slightly smaller then the screw for the new connector.
The 575w HMI I have has a metal connector, and it is very solid with no issues at all. So instead of getting a replacement plastic connector, I wanted to get a metal one. I contacted Richard at cool Lights, and was aware of the issue with the 150w connector, and agreed that a metal one would be better. While he does not currently stock the same metal connector that the 575w HMI has, he does stock another metal connector, and in keeping with the great customer service, he sent me out two metal connectors.
4. Next, thread the screw of the connector through this hole in the yoke. My hole was slightly smaller then the screw, but I was able to thread it through, which created some threading in the hole. Once you know it will work, unscrew the connector from the yoke.
5. Now you need to cut down the screw on the connector. As it is delivered from Cool Lights, It is to long and it will get in the way of the light. You will want to cut about 1/4” off of the screw. Cut it down so that it is no taller then the wings on the wing nut. To cut the screw, you will need to place it in a vice and use a metal cutting saw. (Be careful to handle the metal with gloves, it gets VERY HOT after it is cut.***)
6. Once the metal screw is cooled, you can now rethread it through the yoke, and secure it with the included wing nut. Make sure that the wings of the nut are perpendicular to the yoke. Otherwise they may get in the way of the light. use the pliers to ensure that you have tightened the nut securely.
7. Finally, you can now reattach the yoke to the light. If the bolts in the light did not stay in place when you unscrewed it, you can use a pair of needle nose pliers to push the nut back into place when you thread the screws.
8. The yoke should now be able to swing clear of the light. It will be a tight fit, but it should work. (I did notice that on one of the 150w HMI’s I had to remove the washer in-between the wing nut and the yoke to get it to work correctly.)
Cheers,
Ryan E. Walters, Cinematographer
*** It is very important to wear gloves when touching the hot metal. When I cut the top off of the screw, it was hanging on by a thread, and I thought that I could quickly take it off. But upon touching it my hand was instantly burned. I now have an interesting looking burn on my index finger. Be advised.
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